Top Five Coolest Beach Bars—And They're Not Here in the Seychelles

By Louise Pool
“Anyone for another Seybrew?” The sun is setting and I'm sitting on a giant bean bag squishing my toes in the sand. Slow rhythmic music is playing in the background and all around me is lively chatter. I'm not mingling much tonight; I'm more in the mood for people watching and it's a good crowd gathered here to watch the sunset tonight. Maybe I'll stick around for a couple of hours and see if I can spot a falling star. 
 
Sadly, this scenario exists only in my imagination. There isn't a single cool bar on the beach in the Seychelles. Once upon a time, the Coral Strand had a good Happy Hour going on Sundays, but we all know what happened there...

The Secret to Retaining Your Virtue in Seychelles

By Louise Pool
Yesterday I got hit on by a toothless guy in a wheelchair. I was minding my own business, about to enter a small boutik malbar to buy my daily packet of Mahe Kings, when he wheeled over to me at breakneck speed. “Miss, you so beautiful.” he said, wheezing and coughing as he offered me a cigarette. With a smile on my face (I'm not really nasty and I'm not actually beautiful.), I politely declined. He became more insistent and then asked me for my phone number.

Now, if I had been in another country, I might have assumed this was just a lonely guy looking for a chat to brighten up his day. But this is Seychelles. The land where every man thinks he's God's gift to woman. Any woman. So I had to become a little more strident in defending my virtue.

Who Needs Kite Surfing When You Can Ride in a Tata Bus?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/seba_f80/

By Louise Pool
I do not and have never indulged in ice climbing, bungee jumping or any other extreme sport, although I do seem to be drawn to the type of man who does. I get my thrills vicariously by watching my man take the risks or from watching serial killers and vampires on tv. I'll also get my adrenalin surges by taking adventurous (some might say stupid)  decisions in life.

Alas, there is one area of my life where I cannot avoid putting myself in physical danger: riding a Tata bus in Seychelles.

A True Islander Lives in the Moment

Today is the tomorrow you worried about yesterday.
I grew up with this little wooden placard hanging in our kitchen. These words of wisdom accompanied us from Japan to Switzerland and, when my mother recently moved back to the Seychelles, she brought the sign with her and hung it up in the kitchen. The strange thing is, although she is a Seychelloise (in other words, an islander), she never embraced the insight; my mother is a worrier. Big time. This is the woman who stayed awake chain smoking all night worrying about the next day and still does (worry AND chainsmoke).

Why don't we have a beach shack at Beauvallon?

Blanchard's Beach Shack in Anguilla

We have a couple of take away stands, mainly on the weekends. We have a few restaurants. We have some hotels and a new "architectural masterpiece" is being foisted upon us.

What we don't have is a cool beach shack.

The dogs ate my blog...

Yes, it's been years and I don't have a decent excuse.

Of course I've been busy, but who isn't?
Of course I've been employed, but how many are?
Of course I have a family, but how many others do?
Of course I (fill in the blank), but (fill in the blank)?

So, in lieu of a decent excuse: the dogs ate my blog.

A Seychellois Definition of Antique

Many might know that the Seychelles have been populated since the end of the 18th century. And craftsmen built some beautiful furniture in those days. Not much of it is around anymore (and the few items that are, are firmly in the hands of the families who originally commissioned them), so I was really excited to see an ad on Seybay boldly entitled "Antique Furniture". Fingers trembling with excitement, I clicked on the advertisement.

Back With a Vengeance

Well, I'm finally online again.

I visited Intelvision a couple of days before I moved and they assured me that I would be online within a week. I was pleasantly surprised, as things don't usually move that quickly over here. I paid in advance for both the reallocation and the monthly internet fee.

Then I went about my moving and waited.

Don't Have to Set Up a Tent After All!

After looking for a place to rent for over three months, I've finally found a house. As usual, it was pretty last minute with one and a half weeks to go before my moving out date.

But what a house! Yes, I am paying a fortune for it (and, of course, some of it in Euros), but it is huge. I am now the proud to-be-renter of a "villa" with 4-bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 2 living rooms, a study and an atelier. I've never had so much space in my life and I'm sharing it with only my two kids. I fear we'll be wandering the halls like lost souls in space. My daughter is worried about my son and I being lonely next year when she'll leaves to study abroad and says that I need to find a man by then. It's a novel idea; get a man to fill a house ...

The atelier is ideal, because I've long wanted space to do Reiki and other "spiritual life coaching" in and now I no longer have any excuse to put it off. So apart from the excitement of moving, I'm also getting worked up about the business I'll be starting.

There is no internet connection in the house, so I might be offline for a couple of weeks until Intelvision sets up my connection. I have pre-posted the Wordless Wednesdays and hope to post something inbetween from the internet cafe.

That's if I ever come down the hill. My only regret is that I'll be leaving Bel Ombre and moving to Glacis. Visto Do Mar Estate is a pretty swanky area, but I shall miss the atmosphere of Bel Ombre and the proximity to the beach.

Thank you to all my well-wishers; I am sure the "good vibes" really helped.

Off to new shores! Or hills, as that may be ...

Ingrid Betancourt Swaps One Jungle for Another

It seems everybody who is somebody feels the need to visit Seychelles at some point or another. We've had Brad Pitt, Prince William and maybe even Jim Morrison gracing our shores with their luminance.

Now, Ingrid Betancourt is on a (much-needed I'm sure) holiday here after her 6 year ordeal in the Colombian jungle. It turns out that she lived here for two years in the early Eighties and had the dubious pleasure of giving birth to one of her children in Victoria Hospital. And, according to this article, even indulged in a spot of wet-nursing whilst here.

Sarcasm aside, I truly wish the poor woman has a good holiday here with her kids. If anyone needs the peace of Seychelles, she does.

Who next, I wonder? Obama? He seems to be as keen on indulging his wanderlust as the last Pope...

Desperately Seeking Rental Accommodation

Just like many others on this island, I'm looking for a house or flat to rent in the north of Mahé.

My landlord is tearing the house down in the beginning of August so that he can build executive flats to rent out in Euros. There is hardly an owner on the island these days who is willing to rent out in Seychelles Rupees. This is largely thanks to the developers of Eden Island and some of the new luxury hotels who are more than happy to shell out their foreign exchange to accommodate their staff.

What, I wonder, will happen when these people finish building their own houses (as is planned)? The bubble is bound to burst then and all these renters will be stuck with their over-priced apartments and houses.

I put an ad on Seybay, our local online classifieds site and got a phone call from someone today who is renting out a 3-bedroom flat in Beau Vallon for Euros 1000. On the black market (which is how everbody calculates these days) that is SR 20'000. I could manage Euros 500 if pushed, but even that is a ridiculous amount.

Two years ago, you could get a nice 3-bedroom house in North Mahé for SR 6000 per month. That's bad enough considering that the average wage here is SR 3'500 a month. This is why most single people stay with their parents until well into their 30s.

Sleeping on the beach is dangerous these days, so I don't even have that option.

I live in hope of a miracle...

Jim Morrison Alive and Kicking in the Seychelles?

The Daily Mail interviewed the Doors keyboard player Ray Manzarek and this is what he had to say: 'I often wonder if his death has been an elaborate charade,' and 'Jim was a restless soul, always looking for something else in life, and even six years of success - and excess - with The Doors hadn't been enough for him. A year earlier, he had shown me a brochure for the Seychelles and said: "Wouldn't this be the perfect place to escape to if everyone believed you were dead?'
I'll keep my eyes peeled for an old doped up white guy. It would help if I had one of those nifty FBI aging programmes.

If you're reading this Jim, get in touch. It would be a gas to hang out at your pad. Far out, man. Groovy, baby.

Maybe Elvis is here, too...

The Coral Strand Hotel is Open Again - Sort of...

Contrary to everybody's expectations, the Coral Strand reopened as planned on 1st July. It's not open to the public yet and they have a total of 2 hotel guests. Some staff are working and the small kitchen is open to cater for the lonely guests. I don't envy them at all. Imagine going on holiday to a place touted as paradise and having to live in a hotel where the renovations are still ongoing.

So many people have come to this blog searching for information on what is happening at the Coral Strand this week, that I felt I had to do my duty. Intrepid reporter that I am, I snuck up this afternoon to take some pictures.

This is the front entrance of the newly 4-star rated hotel. The rooms are still as tiny as ever, far too small for a 4-star. And what is that thing on the left? A gatehouse of sorts to keep all us plebians out?


I can't see that anything has been changed at the bistro, except that it's obviously closed. No lunch or tea whilst gazing at the sea for the hotel guests.


Nor any lounging around the pool, unless the highlight of the holiday is watching the builders doing whatever it is they're doing.


I suppose the guests could always sit in this weird pavillion thingy whilst watching the labourers. Wonder why they replaced the lovely thatched roof with this circus tent and chairs reminiscent of the 1970s?


Is this one of the lonely guests? I took this picture during what are usually happy hours at the Coral Strand, so perhaps it's just some lost soul looking for a beer and a bit of cheer at the still closed pool bar. No joy for him, either way...


I feel really sorry for those poor guests. The management was very shortsighted in thinking the renovations would be done in two months (everybody told them it wasn't going to be possible in the Seychelles), but I reckon they were too greedy to pass up on the few bucks they could make. It's sheer irresponsible to take in clients and charge them the newly hefty prices for a lousy holiday. They should have moved them to another hotel and paid the difference.

I wonder how many other poor suckers are arriving this week for their holiday in hell...

UPDATE: Food Crisis? It's Napa Land here all the way.

UPDATE: I've noticed many visitors to this blog still read this post, although it's from 2008. Do we still have a food crisis here in Seychelles?


I don't believe we have. Oh, of course our supermarkets are not as full as those in Europe, but we're doing pretty ok. We even have a mini local supermarket chain called Kanu's that is very well stocked. They import a brand called Emborg, which I strongly suspect is EU overproduction for export (but, hey, it's still good stuff).

Prices are higher than ever, though...

Night Lights of Cities around the World

I got this in my email today. Enjoy.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Singapore


London, England

Niagra Falls, U.S.A.

Paris, France

Victoria, Seychelles

Too often true, thanks to all the power cuts ...

The Tourist Police Strike Again!

Once again, the recently formed Tourist Police were able to prevent a major crime from occurring in the Seychelles...

A friend of mine was on the beach at Beau Vallon earlier today. She has two daughters under the age of ten who were playing, as children are wont to do, with a small ball. They were stopped from their harmless tossing the ball to each other by two ladies from the new Tourist Police. Granted, they apologized for having to stop the children from playing. They were only doing their duty and were being watched by another Tourist Police Officer who cruises around in a car making sure the cops are doing their duty. (Sound familiar? Shades of 1939? 1984? Or, more locally, 1983?) It seems it's now against the law to play any kind of ball on the beach. The officers were a little unsure upon being questioned if it was allowed to play frisbee. One said yes, the other said no. But then again, neither of them knew what a frisbee was.

This incident didn't even occur in front of a hotel, but a good kilometer down the beach on the "local side" by the pizzeria.

A couple of other kids I know were stopped from kicking a football around on the beach, and the local evening football games which are a Seychellois tradition have been stopped. Even tourists aren't allowed to play ball anymore. I haven't really seen any tourist being stopped, but there aren't many tourists here now. Let's see what happens when the "hordes" arrive with their children in July.

This tourist certainly wasn't stopped from camping even though she describes two Tourist Police Officers being around. "The funniest part about the whole trip was the
strange reactions we received when telling the local people we were
camping. Apparently people don't really camp in the Seychelles." That's because they aren't allowed to. Camping is, and has been for a long time, illegal in the Seychelles.

Well-behaved dogs with collars and in company of their owners are no longer allowed on the beach without a leash. The owners are told to leave the beach or face penalties. (I was with a friend a couple of months ago, when we were very rudely told off by a couple of officers puffed up with self-importance.) The beach dogs that hang around the hotels and actually harass tourists are left to their own devices. They, it would seem, are not a problem.

Basically, the idea of a tourist police patrolling the beaches is not a bad idea. Seychelles is not as free of crime as it once was and there have been a few incidents of bags being stolen off the beach and even a couple of muggings. Here's a happy story where the criminal was caught and the bag returned to the tourist a day later.

I just wish they'd concentrate on turning Seychelles into a crime-free haven and not a fun-free haven.

National Day Came and Went Without a Boom

According to the Nation: A large crowd attended a military parade yesterday at Stad Linite that was part of activities to mark the 15th National Day celebrations.

I wasn't part of that large crowd. I abhor the pomp of military parades and brass band music, which were the major offerings of the day. Even deep down inside, I feel no atavistic urges to start twirling a baton to the tune of a trumpet.

I didn't attend the street party the evening before either. Drunken roisterers spoiling for a fight and pissing all over the place without paying any attention to passersby are not my thang at all. I worry about their aim in their intoxicated state and have no wish to be anywhere near.

The weather was so miserable that I stayed at home for most of the day anyway. I did venture out in the late afternoon for a drive around town to view the new monument to commemorate the 15th National Day.

Ohmigod, it's a flagpole. I am suitably impressed ...

Vroom, Vroom. Let the Friday Night Games Begin

On Friday nights the danger-loving intrepid young men of Seychelles meet up at Docklands for some seriously dangerous street racing. Young ladies between the ages of 18 and 20 are cordially invited to watch the daredevils as they race all of 500m from Docklands to the Supersave roundabout.

Do these young ladies get invited for a pizza at Docklands after having to watch the young guns race up and down the street all evening? Nope. It's straight home after the evening's entertainment and off to bed (usually alone) for the testosterone-driven lads.

Here's a little video so you can join in the fun and games...


Evo - Click here for more amazing videos

And It Ain't Just the Food Prices: Living Costs in Seychelles

Many people have come to this blog looking for the living costs in the Seychelles. You don't really want to know ...

But if you must know, read on for some examples. I take no responsibility for any cardiovascular episodes. The first price is the approximate price in June 2006. The second is the price now in June 2008.

Powdered milk, medium size tin was Rs 30, is now between Rs 70 and 90, depending on the brand. (And forget about Nido; everyone here has forgotten what that is.)

Butter, 250 g, salted, was Rs 4.50, is now Rs 18 for a pack of Anchor. Last week I paid Rs 19 for 125 g of Italian butter. And that's when it's available at all...

Rice, 1 kg, good quality, was Rs 6, is now Rs 18.

Meat, fish and chicken are still reasonable. I bought a pork tenderloin at Supersave for approx. Rs 30, local chicken is still under Rs 30 for a packet of drumsticks or thighs and the price of fish depends on the monsoon as it always did in Seychelles.

The petrol prices rose again by Rs 4 /l last week.

Flats or houses are going for around Rs 6-8000 for a three bedroom house. That's if you can find one at all in Rs; everyone wants Forex these days and there are many "executive-style" places cropping up all over the island going for Euros 1200 for two bedrooms.

The official exchange rate is Rs 12 to the Euro and Rs 8 to the Dollar. Two years ago it was Rs 6 to the Euro; I can't remember the Dollar.

And this is what President Michel had to say about it at the recent food summit in Rome...

Happy Liberation Day

A couple of years ago someone welded the liberated man's chains together ...







Here are some views on the matter of Liberation Day:

• a blog post by Sandra Benoiton Hanks
• a blog post by Another View of Seychelles Politics. Tagline: "The aim of this blog is to provide an analysis of the Seychelles Politics but an analysis which is not what a political party would like you to believe. I do not claim that I have the absolute truth on everything and I am only giving my opinions or reactions to things that happen. I am not making party propaganda (like other "independent" medias do)"
• a blog post by Cuhnelbald who writes a political blog on Seychelles, where he looks at some important issues

Will I be dancing on the streets? No, not my cup of tea. I shall be staying at home, avoiding the masses and silently tipping my hat to the person who did the welding. Subversive action with a touch of humour always appeals to me ...